Getting Frosty

A few months ago, I bemoaned that downtown Highland Park

An influx of dessert domiciles were moving in, good for occupancy rates but maybe not for diversity. One of the first emails I received after I wrote that column was from Ed Bruksch, one of the businessmen planning to open such an emporium. With a confidence bordering on swagger, Bruksch flatly stated that he was unconcerned about all the competition, his new place was going to be the creme on top of Highland Park -- even if he was opening right before winter. 

That got my attention. 

Bruksch had a reason for his confidence. A retired finance guy from Barrington, Bruksch is a snowbird who winters in Arizona. Under the desert sun, he had discovered the wonders of Tuscon-based Frost Gelato, guys who had captured the essence of a true Italian gelateria. He learned that Frost's founders were looking to offer franchises. In their oasis of dessert, Bruksch sought out and obtained the Frost franchise for the entire Chicago metropolitan area. He enlisted his son and son-in-law, who quit their day jobs to get into gelato. Suddenly, two generations were learning a whole new business, while seeking locations to call home. 

With the whole Chicago area as a clean slate, why did Frost Gelato ? I asked Bruksch that very question, a week before . He had looked at all kinds of properties, from Naperville to the North Side. In the end he settled on Highland Park because of the space and the people. Everything about Highland Park -- a pedestrian-oriented downtown, commuter traffic, families, and Ravinia -- appealed to him, along with the space itself. The renovation of the provided an opportunity to build the storefront to the exacting specifications of the Frost owners in Arizona, along with bonuses like putting in a party room. 

While Bruksch and I talked gelato, a passerby interrupted and wished him well. She said she had friends in Arizona and they raved about Frost. I've heard this story about a half dozen times now, which only lead me to be more curious about the product itself. With a plethora of dairy delights in Highland Park, why would I choose Frost? Bruksch told me it would be both about the product and the experience. On the product side, he shocked me with nutrition information. Frost Gelato has only 132 calories and 2.6 grams of fat per 3.5 ounce serving. The gelato at Frost is made in house, with the equipment and many of the ingredients imported from Italy. He promised to have a huge variety of flavors, like a real Italian gelateria. Most importantly, he said it was great gelato and that it wouldn't disappoint. 

With all this buildup, I went to Frost's opening night last week anticipating a let down. The sleek-looking space was packed with friends and family, along with fresh-faced, smiling servers anxious to get the scoop show on the road. The gleaming stainless tubs were chock full of crazy flavors -- bubble gum, cheesecake, cabernet. The cream-colored floor only added to the airy feel, though I do wonder how it will stay clean during a Chicago winter. More to the point, how will the business succeed through the winter? 

Meanwhile, it was showtime. On cue at 6 p.m., the gelato started flowing. 

And it was awesome. 

Bruksch had told me to bring along my family -- "How much free gelato can people really eat in two hours?" Thus, we enjoyed tasting about a dozen different flavors. My personal favorite was the sea salt caramel, served with a small cookie. My daughters dug into fruity flavors -- the older one strawberry, the younger banana. I don't really like bananas, and I was surprised at how incredibly flavorful her scoop was. No surprise, she dutifully worked at it until it was all gone, one small spoonful at a time. 

Bruksch thinks he has a winner. While Highland Park is the first location for Frost outside of the southwest, he doesn't expect to build just one location. If opening night was any indication, Bruksch is onto something. It may not be pretty, but we're going to see a dairy delight showdown in downtown Highland Park. That new yogurt place may open soon on Sheridan, may have their sprinkles and dips and may be all probiotic, but for my taste buds, I'll be frequenting Frost.